Caging
Decor
At least one basking spot is an absolute must. Climbing structures can be added for additional enrichment, many seem to enjoy hammocks. Bearded dragons can be pretty active, so it’s preferable to provide them with a decent amount of open space. Some also appreciate an enclosed area to hide and sleep in.
Substrate
Our personal favorite is tile or shelf liner. It is safe, attractive, and easy to clean. Other suitable options include paper towels (must be changed often) or a sand/soil mixture. While reptile carpet is acceptable, it can very difficult to clean and keep sanitary. Some keepers also report instances of their pet’s nails getting caught in the carpet. We recommend that beginners avoid using sand by itself, as it has been known to cause impaction in bearded dragons that are struggling with other health issues. However, we strongly advise against using walnut shell or any type of calcium sand, regardless of experience level. Bearded dragons are more likely to ingest these products, making them much more likely to lead to impaction.
Heating
Bearded dragons should be provided with a basking spot under a heat lamp. A variety of different basking bulbs can be used and you may have to play around with the wattage to get the temperature right. You can use a heat gun (available on Amazon) to reliably measure the temperature. Juvenile bearded dragons should be provided with a hot spot of 110F – 115F. An adult’s basking spot should be 100F – 105F. As long as the temperature stays above 65F, all lights and heating elements can be turned off at night. A nighttime temperature drop can actually improve their sleep cycle and is benefical to their overall health. If the room temperature drops below 65F at night, a ceramic heat emitter or deep heat project can be used, as they produce heat without producing light.
Lighting
In most cases, the ideal UVB light for a beraded dragon is a 10.0 T5 HO UVB linear bulb, popular brands include Arcadia and the Zoo Med Reptisun. Some keepers use T8 bulbs, but T5 bulbs emit stronger UVB and are more appropriate for species that require high levels of UVB. However, if you are mounting your UVB light inside the enclosure rather than on top of a screen lid, you may want to consider using a T8 instead. UVB bulbs should be replaced every 6-12 months depending on type and brand, as they will stop emitting UVB.
Diet
Supplementation
Supplements are typically offered via a powder you use to dust their insects. This is done by adding some of the powder to a bag or cup, and shaking the insects in the powder. Our preferred supplement is Repashy Calcium Plus, which has both calcium and a multivitamin. Repashy Calcium Plus is designed to be used withe very insect feeding. If you are not using Repashy Calcium Plus, for adult bearded dragons you can offer calcium without D3 twice a week and a multivitamin supplement once per week. Juveniles should be offered calcium every feeding, and multivitamins twice a week. We recommend avoiding supplements you add to their water, as this dilutes to the supplement – making it harder to control the amount. Bearded dragons also do not reliably drink water.
Water
Things You Should NOT Do
- Pinkie Mice – Feeding pinkies to bearded dragons is a controversial topic because they are very high in fat.
- Romaine and Iceburg – These greens aren’t dangerous, just very low in nutrition.
- Spinach – Spinach is very high in oxalates, which bind to calcium and prevent the body from fully absorbing it.
- Kale – Kale can be fed in moderation, but too many keepers still use it as a staple green. Kale is high in goitrogens, which can negatively impact a bearded dragon’s thyroid.
- Wild Insects – In the words of mothers all over the world, “You don’t know where that’s been!” Wild insects are often infested with parasites that can infect your bearded dragon. Every bearded dragon we’ve gotten in that was found outside has had a serious parasite infection.
Common Health Issues
Hepatic lipidosis:This is the term for “fatty liver disease,” and is a common malady in overweight reptiles. This is common in bearded dragons fed high-fat diets, such as pellets, waxworms, superworms, and mealworms. Superworms can definitely be used as a part of a balanced diet, but waxworms are especially high in fat and should only be fed sparingly. If a dragon gets too much fat in the diet, the body cannot process it all and fat starts to deposit in the liver. In advanced cases, this causes anorexia, fluid buildup in the body, regurgitation, and death. See a veterinarian if you are concerned your dragon has hepatic lipidosis. They will likely recommend a diet change and feeding consistent amounts of low-fat foods. As a reminder, adult bearded dragons should be eating 80% greens and vegetables, and only small amount of insects and fruits.
Prolapse: Cloacal prolapses can happen in both male and female dragons, but male dragons are more prone to developing hemipenal prolapses. Prolapses are a very serious medical condition and should be considered an emergency situation. Bearded dragons suffering from a prolapse should see a veterinarian immediately. If it is recent, sometimes the vet can push the prolapsed tissue back in and place a temporary suture, but advanced prolapses can become infected and necrotic. Some prolapses will require amputation.
Bradrick Hawkins 45 ভিতরে
Thank you for this!