Care Guide: Boas: Viper Boas

Although also known as New Guinea ground boas, this snake earned the common name “viper boa” due to their distinctly viper-like appearance with a chunky body, slender pointed head, and keeled scales. However, they are boas, not vipers, and not venomous. Coloring varies between golden, orange, reddish, brown, or almost black, often with a darker blotched pattern. Males are significantly smaller than females.

Viper boas can make good pets because they’re low-maintenance and manageably sized, but they also have high humidity needs and a specialized diet. With good care, this pet can have a 20-year lifespan.

Enclosure

Minimum terrarium size for viper boas

Many people opt for 20 or 40-gallon tanks for viper boas However, based on our experience, we suggest a 36” L x 18” W x 18” H enclosure for these snakes. We find that viper boas can be active and enjoy having space to explore and climb. Ultimately, the best living conditions for snakes will depend on various factors, including their needs and preferences.

Can viper boas be kept together?

We do not recommend cohabitation (keeping multiple boas in one enclosure).

How to quarantine a viper boa

When you bring home a new pet reptile, it’s best practice to quarantine it first, especially if you own other reptiles.

Quarantine is the practice of isolating animals that have arrived from elsewhere or been exposed to infectious or contagious disease.

Even if you don’t have other reptiles, quarantine is still crucial because it allows you to closely monitor your snake for signs of illness and administer treatment. You can use your viper boas’ long-term enclosure for quarantine or a large plastic tub. Tubs are inexpensive and easy to clean, making them the go-to option for quarantine.

Here are some general rules for quarantining your viper boas:

Keep the snake in a different room from other reptiles, if possible.
We suggest using different equipment for your new viper boas and washing your hands thoroughly between handling other animals.
Thoroughly disinfect the enclosure often; we suggest doing this about one time per week.
If needed, get the viper boas checked by an experienced reptile veterinarian and treated for parasites.
Monitor your new pet closely and watch for any symptoms of illness or disease.
Check your snake and its water bowl closely for mites, especially if the snake is soaking. If you do find mites, treat them accordingly.

Lighting

Do viper boas need UVB?

While viper boas can survive without UVB lighting, we recommend providing it. UVB lighting helps give a clear day/night cycle, provides all of the vitamin D your pet needs, strengthens the immune system, facilitates better digestion, and other benefits.

We recommend the following UVB bulbs for viper boas:

Zoo Med Reptisun T5 HO 5.0
Arcadia Forest 6%

The bulb you buy should be approximately half the length of the enclosure. For best results, house the UVB bulbs in a reflective fixture from Arcadia or Vivarium Electronics. Position the lamp on the same side of the terrarium as the heat lamp, about 9-12” above the snake’s back if over mesh, and 12-14” above the snake’s back if not.

UVB is blocked by glass and plastic, so placing the terrarium in front of a window doesn’t count as “free UVB” — it can make your terrarium too hot due to the greenhouse effect. Don’t forget to replace your bulb every 12 months!

We suggest leaving lights on for about 8-12 hours daily to follow a natural day-to-night cycle. You can also adjust the lighting based on seasonal changes, running it for more extended periods during the summer and shorter periods during the winter. All lights should be off at night.

Heating

The best temperature for viper boas

Like other reptiles, viper boas are cold-blooded, which means they rely on external temperatures to manage their body temperature and metabolism. A reptile’s enclosure should offer a range of temperatures to allow them to thermoregulate effectively.

Viper boas prefer an environment that is on the cooler end of the spectrum; they should generally have a basking/hot spot temperature of around 85°F, an average ambient temperature of 78-80°F, and a cool side temperature between 70-75°F. Each reptile may have different preferences and needs, so you may need to adjust these ranges up or down slightly to accommodate your pet better. It is good practice to monitor your animal and make adjustments as needed.

We suggest using digital probe thermometers to measure air temperatures, with the probe placed directly under or over the heating source. Different subspecies may have other heating requirements, so it is essential to research your specific animal thoroughly.

Overhead heating methods, such as Halogen bulbs, are recommended to achieve and maintain these temperatures. However, some may opt for alternative methods like under-tank heating or radiant heat panels.

It is essential to regulate and monitor the temperature of the heating method chosen. To do this, we suggest using a thermostat or dimmer switch to control the heat output. We recommend using an infrared thermometer and a digital thermometer to monitor enclosure temperatures.

Providing your boa with the appropriate temperature range will ensure your pet is healthy, comfortable, and able to carry out necessary biological processes effectively.

Humidity

Best humidity levels for viper boas

We find that viper boas need average humidity levels between 65-80% — lower during the day, and higher at night.

Measure humidity with a digital probe hygrometer, placing the probe in the middle of the terrarium. This device will allow you to keep track of the humidity levels and adjust as needed to ensure that your viper boa is in a comfortable and healthy environment.

Substrate

Naturalistic Options

Choosing a suitable substrate is essential when creating a comfortable and healthy habitat for your boa. A great option is to provide a thick layer of natural substrate (bedding), which can cushion and help maintain humidity levels while enhancing the enclosure’s overall appearance. Since viper boas naturally burrow, we suggest using the naturalistic substrate option. We recommend the following substrates for boas:

Substrate mixes are also a great option. You can mix several commercial substrates or create a mixture using a combination of organic topsoil, play sand, and moss. Other self-made mixture options are possible, and you should research the subject and ratios thoroughly before starting your custom mix.

Layering clean, chemical-free leaf litter on top of the substrate can also help with humidity and provides extra cover for your snake! It is a good idea to keep the substrate moist (but not soggy) to keep your viper boa happy and well-hydrated.

Ideally, the substrate should be at least 4” deep and completely replaced every 3-4 months. Remove poop and urates daily, along with any contaminated substrate.

Paper Towels

While various substrate options are available for boa enclosures, some keepers prefer to use simpler substrates, such as paper towels. These can be an effective and easy-to-maintain option for keeping your snake’s enclosure clean and is especially significant when your snake is still in quarantine.

However, it is essential to remember that using paper towels as a substrate requires more frequent replacement than other options. Paper towels can quickly become soiled and develop mold if left unchanged for too long. Therefore, regularly replacing the paper towel substrate is recommended to keep your boa’s enclosure clean and prevent mold growth.

Ultimately, the choice of substrate for your boa’s enclosure will depend on your personal preferences and your pet’s needs. Regardless of which substrate you choose, it is important to maintain it properly to ensure your boa stays healthy and comfortable.

What to know about cleaning a viper boa enclosure

Replacing your boa’s substrate is a good time to give the entire enclosure a good cleanout. Here are some general steps to follow:

Remove your snake from the enclosure and put it inside a temporary, escape-proof holding container. This container should offer a hide, a small water bowl, and a thin layer of the old substrate from the enclosure for the snake’s comfort.
Remove all substrate and decor.
Vacuum and wipe down the enclosure to remove leftover particles.
Apply a reptile-safe disinfectant to the floor and walls of the enclosure and let it sit for the disinfectant’s recommended contact time.
Meanwhile, soak branches, rocks, hides, and other decor items in a disinfectant rated for porous materials for the recommended contact time.
If required, rinse the enclosure and the accessories with clean water to remove disinfectant residue. Allow everything to dry.
Pour new substrate into the enclosure. Mix in water until uniformly moistened but not wet.
Arrange décor. If your boa is easily stressed by change, put everything back where it was before.
Reintroduce your snake to the clean setup.

Several veterinary-grade disinfectant options are available that are effective for both porous and nonporous materials, such as Chlorhexidine, F10SC, and CleanBreak. It is essential to carefully follow the instructions on the packaging to ensure safe and proper use. Alternatively, you can disinfect enclosures by using a diluted bleach solution. For porous materials, a 1:10 dilution is recommended, while for nonporous materials, a 1:50 dilution should be used.

Décor

How to decorate a viper boa terrarium

We have found that providing environmental enrichment for your viper boa can significantly improve its quality of life by keeping it stimulated and engaged. Adding carefully selected décor items can encourage natural behaviors and exercise, leading to a happy and healthy pet.

We suggest at least two hiding places on the warm and cool sides of the enclosure. Viper boas are terrestrial but will use the occasional low branch. They also enjoy a lot of clutter to hide and explore!

Some great options to include in your enclosure are:

Food

What to feed to a viper boa

Boas are carnivorous, meaning they must eat whole animal prey for proper nutrition. Here is a basic feeding schedule:

Juveniles — every 10-14 days
Adults — every 21-28 days

Prey items should be around 10% of the snake’s weight and no more than 1- 1.5x its width at its widest point. You can choose to feed live or frozen prey. We recommend using frozen/thawed rodents when possible, as they are easier to find and store while eliminating the risk of the prey injuring your snake. If you choose to feed live prey, we strongly recommend monitoring your snake during feeding so that you can quickly remove the rodent if needed. Frozen prey should be thawed in a BPA-free plastic bag in warm water until it reaches ~100°F. Use a pair of soft-tipped feeding tweezers to offer it to your snake.

Based on their wild diet, appropriate prey options for viper boas include frog and iguana meat. Reptilinks, feeder frogs, anoles, and house geckos are great options for their diet. Young rodents can be offered once in a while for variety.

Where to get feeders for your snake

Most pet stores sell frozen mice and rats in various sizes to feed snakes. This option is convenient because you can buy prey one at a time. However, the variety is most likely limited, and the price per rodent is typically relatively high.

You can purchase feeders from an online breeder for your boa if you prefer a more convenient option. With the help of the internet, you can access a wide range of prey options. However, it’s worth noting that these breeders typically require bulk purchases, resulting in a lower cost per rodent but higher upfront expenses. Moreover, shipping costs can be expensive due to the perishable nature of the feeders. We suggest buying several months’ worth of supply at once to avoid paying too much on shipping fees.

Since viper boas prefer lizards and amphibians as their primary prey source, you are more likely to find these options at specialty stores or online.

By utilizing social media, you can often find a local feeder breeder to supply your rodents, and many can offer both live and frozen/thawed. Some keepers choose to breed their rodents. While this is an option, it is work-intensive as you will have rodent enclosures that need regular cleanings.

Providing drinking water for viper boas:

Don’t forget a large water bowl for your snake to drink from and soak in! Change the water daily and scrub the bowl with a reptile-safe disinfectant weekly or whenever it becomes soiled.

Handling

How to handle your viper boa

Reptiles generally don’t appreciate petting and handling in the same way that dogs and cats do. Viper boas generally tolerate human interaction pretty well! Be gentle when picking up your reptile. It is best practice to pick it up from the side or below versus above. Support as much of its body as possible, and NEVER pick it up by its tail, as this can damage its spine!

How to provide enrichment for a viper boa

Enrichment strategically provides items and activities to encourage a captive animal to exercise natural behaviors. It also helps increase activity, reduce stress, and increase the animal’s overall welfare.

Here are some ways to provide enrichment for boas:

Rearrange the enclosure. If total overhauls are too stressful, move one thing occasionally at your snake’s pace. For some individuals, that may be once a month; others might like once a week.
Puzzle feeders. This can be as simple as placing the snake’s prey in an open box or plastic cup.
Simulated nest raids. Instead of offering one prey item, place a cluster of much smaller prey (ex: pinky mice or pinky rats) somewhere in the enclosure for the snake to find.
Supervised exploration time outside of the enclosure. Make sure to keep them away from situations that you can’t get the snake out of.
“Box of things.” Introduce your snake to a box or bin full of different items of different sizes and textures: branches, pipes, easily-washable plushies, etc.!

Health

When should you take a viper boa to the vet?

Dogs and cats aren’t the only pets who need veterinary care — snakes get sick and need professional help like any other pet. If you notice that your snake has any of the following symptoms, make an appointment with an experienced reptile vet right away:

Noisy breathing
Mucus discharge from the mouth/nose
Unexplained weight loss
Large patches of missing scales
Discolored belly scales
Swelling or bumps anywhere on the body
Sudden, unusually aggressive behavior

*This care sheet contains only basic information. Although it’s a good introduction, please further your research with high-quality sources. The more you know, the better you will be able to care for your pet!