Reticulated pythons can live in a variety of different habitats, but they generally prefer forests and wetlands. Although categorized as “terrestrial,” retics are known to be skilled at both climbing and swimming.

Reticulated pythons are capable of growing up to 32’ long, but they usually stay between 15-20’. However, not all retics get even that long. Certain dwarf localities top out between 10-12’, and “super dwarfs” are restricted to 6-8’. They have an oblong head, visible heat pits around the snout, muscular body, and vertical pupils. Retics can be identified by their golden to brown base color with a black and orange zigzag pattern. They also usually have a thin dark stripe on each side of their head extending from the eye to the ear. However, captive breeding efforts have produced a variety of alternative colors and patterns.

Most people will see their first reticulated python in a zoo or during an educational presentation. While they can make striking animal ambassadors and zoo exhibits, they make very poor pets for all but the most dedicated and prepared keepers. Retics require a significant investment of time, space, and money to house and care for properly. Although most reptiles in the pet trade are quite harmless to humans, reticulated pythons are an exception: if the right precautions are not taken, even pet retics are quite capable of injuring and even killing their caretakers.

With good care, reticulated pythons can have a 30-year lifespan.

Enclosures

Due to the variation in reticulated pythons’ size, with some growing up to 30’, we suggest using this formula to determine the enclosure size for your pet: The length and width of the enclosure should be equal to or more than the length of the snake. We recommend that height should be as tall as possible to facilitate natural climbing behavior; at least 6’. We do find that bigger is pretty much always better with snakes of this size! The enclosure must also be completely sealed against the possibility of escape, this includes everything from the door latch to the thickness of the glass.

To predict your pet’s adult size, it’s best to ask your snake’s breeder about the size of its parents. The sire’s length will give you an estimate of how long your pet will grow if male and the dam’s length will give you an estimate of how long your pet will grow if female.

Can two reticulated pythons be kept together?

We do not recommend cohabitation (keeping multiple reticulated pythons in one enclosure).

How to quarantine a reticulated python

When you bring home a new pet reptile, it’s best practice to quarantine it first, especially if you own other reptiles. Quarantine is the practice of isolating animals that have arrived from elsewhere or were exposed to infectious or contagious disease.

Even if you don’t have other reptiles, quarantine is still crucial because it allows you to closely monitor your snake for signs of illness and administer treatment. You can use your reticulated pythons’ long-term enclosure for quarantine or a large plastic tub. Tubs are inexpensive and easy to clean, making them the go-to option for quarantine.

Here are some general rules for quarantining your reticulated pythons:

• Keep the snake in a different room from other reptiles, if possible.
• We suggest using different equipment for your new reticulated pythons and washing your hands thoroughly between handling other animals.
• Thoroughly disinfect the enclosure often; we suggest doing this about one time per week.
• If needed, get the reticulated pythons checked by an experienced reptile veterinarian and treated for parasites.
• Monitor your new pet closely and watch for any symptoms of illness or disease.
• Check your snake and its water bowl closely for mites, especially if the snake is soaking. If you do find mites, treat them accordingly.

Do reticulated pythons need UVB?

While reticulated pythons can survive without UVB lighting, we recommend providing it. UVB lighting helps give a clear day/night cycle, provides all of the vitamin D your pet needs, strengthens the immune system, facilitates better digestion, and other benefits.

The best UVB bulbs for reticulated pythons are:

• Zoo Med Reptisun T5 HO 5.0
  • Mesh obstruction: 11-13”
  • No mesh: 14-16”
• Arcadia Forest 6%
  • Mesh obstruction: 11-13”
  • No mesh: 14-16”
• Zoo Med Reptisun T5 HO 10.0
  • Mesh obstruction: 15-17”
  • No mesh: 18-20”
• Arcadia Desert 12%
  • Mesh obstruction: 15-17”
  • No mesh: 18-20”

The bulb you buy should be approximately half the length of the enclosure. For best results, house the UVB bulbs in a reflective fixture from Arcadia or Vivarium Electronics. Position the lamp on the same side of the terrarium as the heat lamp.

For larger enclosures, it may be more prudent to use a stronger UVB bulb (Zoo Med T5 HO 10.0 or Arcadia 12%) and place the basking surface so the snake’s back will be 18-20” below the lamp. If using multiple UVB bulbs in your enclosure, we advise using a Solarmeter 6.5 to measure UVB output so you don’t accidentally “fry” your snake with UV radiation. Target a basking UVI of 2.0-3.0.

UVB bulbs experience reduced UVB output over time, so make sure to replace your bulb every 12 months to maintain optimum performance.

UVB is blocked by glass and plastic, so placing the terrarium in front of a window doesn’t count as “free UVB” — it can make your terrarium too hot due to the greenhouse effect.

We suggest leaving lights on for about 8-12 hours daily to follow a natural day-to-night cycle. You can also adjust the lighting based on seasonal changes, running it for more extended periods during the summer and shorter periods during the winter. All lights should be off at night.

The best temperature for reticulated pythons

Like other reptiles, reticulated pythons are cold-blooded, which means they rely on external temperatures to manage their body temperature and metabolism. A reptile’s enclosure should offer a range of temperatures to allow them to thermoregulate effectively.

We suggest a hotspot around 90-95°F and a general air temperature of 78-82°F. Temperatures should drop to 75-78°F at night. Each reptile may have different preferences and needs, so you may need to adjust these ranges up or down slightly to accommodate your pet better. It is good practice to monitor your animal and make adjustments as needed. Use wall-mounted digital thermometers to ensure your snake’s environment is always comfortable. We also recommend using an infrared thermometer to monitor enclosure temperatures.

Overhead heating methods, such as Halogen bulbs, are advised to achieve and maintain these temperatures. However, some may opt for alternative eating methods such as deep heat projectors or radiant heat panels. It is essential to regulate and monitor the temperature of the heating method chosen. To do this, we suggest using a thermostat or dimmer switch to control the heat output.

Providing your reticulated python with the appropriate temperature range will ensure your pet is healthy, comfortable, and able to carry out necessary biological processes effectively.

The best humidity levels for

Reticulated pythons need average humidity levels between 65-85%.

We suggest using a digital probe hygrometer to measure humidity by placing the probe in the middle of the terrarium. This device will allow you to keep track of the humidity levels and adjust as needed to ensure that your reticulated python is in a comfortable and healthy environment.

One effective method to increase humidity levels in your reticulated python’s enclosure is misting the enclosure with a spray bottle once or twice a day. Misting the enclosure first thing in the morning and again at night, if necessary, is recommended. Another way to maintain humidity levels is mixing water directly into the substrate, retaining moisture and preventing the enclosure from drying out. You can also provide your snake with a third humid hide lined with moistened sphagnum moss.

Soaking

Wild reticulated pythons are well-documented to routinely soak and swim, so we suggest providing a tub or pool of water at least large enough to accommodate their entire body. Keep the water clean at all times, and scrub with animal-safe disinfectant once a week. It’s a good idea to connect this pool to your home’s plumbing system to make this easier. Alternatively, you will need a pump or siphon. This pool should not be heated and is a good way to provide the option of cooler temps to your snake.

Substrate

Naturalistic Options

Choosing a suitable substrate is essential when creating a comfortable and healthy habitat for your reticulated python. A great option is to provide a thick layer of natural substrate (bedding), which can cushion and help maintain humidity levels while enhancing the enclosure’s overall appearance. We recommend the following substrates for reticulated pythons:

We recommend the following commercial substrates for reticulated pythons:

• Zoo Med Eco Earth
• Zoo Med ReptiSoil
• Exo Terra Plantation Soil
• Zilla Jungle Mix

Substrate mixes are also a great option. You can mix several commercial substrates or create a mixture using a combination of organic topsoil, play sand, and moss. Other self-made mixture options are possible, and you should research the subject and ratios thoroughly before starting your custom mix.

Layering clean, chemical-free leaf litter on the substrate can also help with humidity.

Ideally, the substrate should be at least 4” deep and completely replaced every 3-4 months. Remove poop and urates daily, along with any contaminated substrate.

Paper Towels

While various substrate options are available for reticulated python enclosures, some keepers prefer to use simpler substrates, such as paper towels. These can be an effective and easy-to-maintain option for keeping your snake’s enclosure clean and is especially significant when your snake is still in quarantine.

However, it is essential to remember that using paper towels as a substrate requires more frequent replacement than other options. Paper towels can quickly become soiled and develop mold if left unchanged for too long. Therefore, regularly replacing the paper towel substrate is recommended to keep your reticulated python’s enclosure clean and prevent mold growth.

Ultimately, the choice of substrate for your reticulated python’s enclosure will depend on your personal preferences and your pet’s needs. Regardless of which substrate you choose, it is important to maintain it properly to ensure your reticulated python stays healthy and comfortable.

Water

Of course, don’t forget a large water bowl for your snake to drink from and soak in! Change the water daily and scrub the bowl with a reptile-safe disinfectant weekly or whenever it becomes soiled.

What to know about cleaning a reticulated python enclosure

Replacing your reticulated python’s substrate is a good time to give the entire enclosure a good cleanout. Here are some general steps to follow:

• Remove your snake from the enclosure and put it inside a temporary, escape-proof holding container. This container should offer a hide, a small water bowl, and a thin layer of the old substrate from the enclosure for the snake’s comfort.
• Remove all substrate and decor.
• Vacuum and wipe down the enclosure to remove leftover particles.
• Apply a reptile-safe disinfectant to the floor and walls of the enclosure and let it sit for the disinfectant’s recommended contact time.
• Meanwhile, soak branches, rocks, hides, and other decor items in a disinfectant rated for porous materials for the recommended contact time.
• If required, rinse the enclosure and the accessories with clean water to remove disinfectant residue. Allow everything to dry.
• Pour new substrate into the enclosure. Mix in water until uniformly moistened but not wet.
• Arrange décor. If your reticulated python is easily stressed by change, put everything back where it was before.
• Reintroduce your snake to the clean setup.

Several veterinary-grade disinfectant options are available that are effective for both porous and nonporous materials, such as Chlorhexidine, F10SC, and CleanBreak. It is essential to carefully follow the instructions on the packaging to ensure safe and proper use. Alternatively, you can disinfect enclosures by using a diluted bleach solution. For porous materials, a 1:10 dilution is recommended, while for nonporous materials, a 1:50 dilution should be used.

How to decorate a reticulated python terrarium

We have found that providing environmental enrichment for your reticulated python can significantly improve its quality of life by keeping it stimulated and engaged. Adding carefully selected décor items can encourage natural behaviors and exercise, leading to a happy and healthy pet.

Since reticulated pythons are skilled climbers, we suggest providing sturdy climbing objects to use the enclosure’s vertical space. You should also provide covered areas for the snake to hide. Here are some other ideas:

• thick, sturdy branches or logs
• hides (dog kennels work well)
• ledges/platforms
• large live or artificial plants

Because reticulated pythons can be very heavy, it is best practice to ensure all branches, platforms, and other climbing objects are well secured to the walls and/or floor of the enclosure.

What to feed to a reticulated python

Reticulated pythons are carnivorous, meaning they must eat whole animal prey for proper nutrition.

Reticulated pythons are notoriously overweight in captivity because they are frequently fed far more often than they actually need. Keepers usually find that giant pythons actually thrive on infrequent, although large, meals. Here’s a proposed feeding schedule:

• Hatchlings — every 1-2 weeks
• Juveniles — every 2-4 weeks
• Adults — every 6-12 weeks

Prey items should be around 10% of the snake’s weight and no more than 1.5x its width at its widest point. You can choose to feed live or frozen prey. We recommend using frozen/thawed rodents when possible, as they are easier to find and store while eliminating the risk of the prey injuring your snake. If you choose to feed live prey, we strongly recommend monitoring your snake during feeding so that you can quickly remove the rodent if needed. Frozen prey should be thawed in a BPA-free plastic bag in warm water until it reaches ~100°F. Use a pair of soft-tipped feeding tweezers to offer it to your snake.

One of the keys to great nutrition is variety, so aside from offering mice and rats, quail, chicks, and quail eggs can also add diversity to your snake’s diet.

Where to get feeders for your snake

Most pet stores sell frozen mice and rats in various sizes to feed snakes. This option is convenient because you can buy prey one at a time. However, the variety is most likely limited, and the price per rodent is typically relatively high.

You can purchase feeders from an online breeder for your reticulated python if you prefer a more convenient option. With the help of the internet, you can access a wide range of prey options. However, it’s worth noting that these breeders typically require bulk purchases, resulting in a lower cost per rodent but higher upfront expenses. Moreover, shipping costs can be expensive due to the perishable nature of the feeders. We suggest buying several months’ worth of supply at once to avoid paying too much on shipping fees.

By utilizing social media, you can often find a local feeder breeder to supply your rodents, and many can offer both live and frozen/thawed. Some keepers choose to breed their rodents. While this is an option, it is work-intensive as you will have rodent enclosures that need regular cleanings.

Please keep in mind that since reticulated pythons require large prey items, such as rabbits and pigs, it may be difficult finding a supplier that offers suitable options.

How to provide enrichment for a reticulated python

Enrichment strategically provides items and activities to encourage a captive animal to exercise natural behaviors. It also helps increase activity, reduce stress, and increase the animal’s overall welfare.

Here are some ways to provide enrichment for reticulated pythons:

• Rearrange the enclosure. If total overhauls are too stressful, move one thing occasionally at your snake’s pace. For some individuals, that may be once a month; others might like once a week.
• Puzzle feeders can be as simple as placing the snake’s prey in an open box or plastic cup.
• Simulated nest raids. Instead of offering one prey item, place a cluster of much smaller prey (ex: pinky mice or pinky rats) somewhere in the enclosure for the snake to find.
• Supervised exploration time outside of the enclosure. Make sure to keep them away from situations that you can’t get the snake out of.
• “Box of things.” Introduce your snake to a box or bin full of different items of different sizes and textures: branches, pipes, easily-washable plushies, etc.!

Health

When should you take a reticulated python to the vet?

Dogs and cats aren’t the only pets who need veterinary care — snakes get sick and need professional help like any other pet. If you notice that your snake has any of the following symptoms, make an appointment with an experienced reptile vet right away:

• Noisy breathing
• Mucus discharge from the mouth/nose
• Unexplained weight loss
• Large patches of missing scales
• Discolored belly scales
• Swelling or bumps anywhere on the body
• Sudden, unusually aggressive behavior

*This care sheet contains only basic information. Although it’s a good introduction, please further your research with high-quality sources. The more you know, the better you will be able to care for your pet!